Textiles constitute one of the oldest and most established forms of reuse and recycling. And yet, our two meetings in 2019 demonstrated once again just how vibrant and forward- thinking our industry can be.

In Singapore last May, guest speaker Dr Gloria Lei Yao of the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) wowed the audience with her insight into the organization’s wide- ranging research, development and technology transfer initiatives in the mechanical, chemical and biological recycling of post- consumer textiles. HKRITA has been working with such high-profile brands as H&M in a bid to find practical solutions to converting blended textiles into new fabrics and yarns. And it has even developed a dry upcycling process that completes the garment-to- garment recycling chain within the confines of a standard-size, double- glazed shipping container.

This is not a stand-alone example of innovation. Companies and research institutes around the world are exploring techniques for streamlining the recycling of used textiles.

For a number of years, BIR’s Textiles Division has been underscoring the importance of research and technological developments if our industry is to keep moving forward. In particular, we need scientific expertise to guide us to new applications for that proportion of our material which does not command prices from which a profit can be derived. In effect, collection and sorting of used textiles continue to be financed by the resale of second-hand goods.

As a result of such mega trends as fast fashion, there has been a decline in quality as a result of inferior handling practices leading to a lower proportion of marketable second-hand textiles. We are also confronted by: the potential for trading disruption as a result of wider geopolitical developments such as Brexit; payment problems across a significant proportion of our customer base; and the ever- rising costs associated with running any company. As with most other years of late, the negatives of doing business in our sector seem to outweigh the positives.

Against this backdrop, society as a whole needs to concern itself about who will pay for collection and sorting services if this quality deterioration were to continue without some compensatory profit from the remaining portion of what we handle. This point will become ever more pertinent given the EU’s requirement for mandatory separate collection of used textiles by 2025. Another possibility is that extended producer responsibility on clothing and textiles could be expanded beyond France to other countries.

At our October 2019 meeting in Budapest, our own General Delegate Alan Wheeler showed other ways in which our industry is seeking to innovate. His organization in the UK – the Textile Recycling Association – has embarked on two schemes: firstly, a partnership with the National Bed Federation to create a Register of Approved Mattress Recyclers in a bid to provide commercial advantage to legitimate operators as well as to assist new businesses in understanding what is required to achieve a high standard in mattress recycling; and secondly, the TRUST accreditation scheme to promote best business practices among collectors and sorters, covering such areas as health & safety, employment law and environmental legislation.

Such initiatives bring multiple advantages, not least boosting the overall quality of recycling operations and enhancing the profile of our industry as a solution provider for the wider benefit of the environment.

Earlier in Singapore, Mr Wheeler had highlighted the strategy document for England entitled “Our Waste. Our Resources”, which covers a number of problem areas including water pollution from processes such as dyeing, overconsumption of water and the shedding of microplastics when clothes are washed. We cannot escape the fact that textiles production has huge resource usage ramifications and that global apparel consumption is expected to soar beyond 100 million tonnes per year by 2030. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimates that the global fashion industry accounts for around 10% of all global carbon emissions – more than the aviation and maritime industries combined. WRAP estimates that the industry has the fourth biggest environmental impact in the UK behind housing, transport and food.

The textiles recycling and reuse industry has a huge role to play in mitigating the environmental impact of these realities. But to be most effective in this regard, we must keep our eyes and minds open to fresh possibilities and ways of working.

We may be an old industry, but we must remain receptive to new ideas.